This open-air museum embraces you as soon as you enter its ramparts. Proudly perched on its promontory and surrounded by Tuscan hills, Siena leaves no one indifferent. Often described as a model of a medieval urban planning, brimming with its treasures and palaces, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this city is a true work of art. Often described as a “gothic dream,” despite rampant tourism, Siena has managed to preserve its original soul.
Strictest rules make sure nothing can affect its overall ensemble. This red-brick jewel would not tolerate the slightest misstep. Some of its 12th and 13th century palaces have undergone colossal renovations to accommodate privileged guests for a lunch or dinner in their private apartments with the breathtaking views of the Campo. (Every summer, this magnificent shell-shaped square in the heart of the city is hosting a unique horse race, the Palio). None of these interior improvements can be seen from the outside, however. The facades and terraces are entirely preserved.
With its 55,000 population and a maze of picturesque alleyways, Siena may well claim that spirit of eternity often associated with the Italian boot capital. Rome is about two hours’ drive further south.
The Unique Marble Floor of the Siena Cathedral
Dominating the city, Siena Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary commands a long stop. You can never get tired of admiring its outside. Built from the local marble, this Roman-Gothic architectural masterpiece is displaying several colours which change with the light of the sky. It’s truly enchanting. The interior is also rich in its many treasures. The Piccolomini Library is one of them, adorned with the 15th-century frescoes by the Italian Pinturicchio. He famously had the young Raphael as an assistant, designing some of its pictures. Dating from 1268, the marble pulpit by Nicola Pisano, with its admirable sculpted panels of a striking realism, is equally remarkable.
But the most exceptional part is the interior flooring of the Siena Duomo. Covered for protection for a good part of the year, some fifty panels feature marble marquetry work defying all understanding. The detailing of the clothing and facial expressions is such that it required the work of some forty artists succeeding each another between the 14th and 16th centuries. Announcing the coming of the Saviour throwing a bridge between the pagan world and Christianity, these panels represent the sibyls of antiquity.
Religious art is omnipresent in Siena. Currently under renovation, the National Art Gallery is housing a few of its masterpieces. “The Annunciation” by Ambrogio Lorenzetti and “Madonna and Child with Saint John” by Domenico di Giacomo del Pace, known as “Mecarino” among them. Venerated on many occasions, the Virgin Mary is also credited with defending the city against its enemies in the Middle Ages, including its greatest rival, Florence. Depicted as a queen, she is known to have helped people of Siena win the memorable Battle of Montaperti in 1260.
Modern Siena: From the “Good Administration” to the Public Hospital
From the Middle Ages onward the city of Siena has been interestingly modern. The very embodiment of a medieval city, it somehow always knew how to perfectly integrate into the landscape, making the best of its resources. It also had a profound influence on medieval art, architecture and urban planning, not only in Italy but throughout much of Europe. The city is thus a masterpiece born over the centuries out of the determination and imagination of its own builders.
Housed in the town hall, the Civic Museum is evoking the concept of “good administration”. Putting the public good first, the city administration of Siena is true to a philosophy advocated by the ancient Greeks. Here Ambrogio Lorenzetti created the largest secular painting of the Middle Ages and the first major political work of the Renaissance. His frescoes illustrate both the effects of good city administration and the disasters tyranny may cause, depicted in the form of a devil. The colour, linework and attention to detail make these works the pinnacle of refinement.
Housed at the Piccolomini Palace, the State Archives (open to visit upon booking) testify to innovative rigour. Dating from the 12th to the 16th centuries, some 180,000 documents are thus carefully preserved here. Painted by the most illustrious artists of the time, a collection of wooden tablets serving as covers for accounting records, is particularly admirable. About a hundred of them are on display here, dating from 1258 to the 18th century. Some, genuine treasures.
Another highly recommended must see is a former hospital, now an art centre. Facing the cathedral and promising some surprising discoveries, the first European 12th century public hospital has been under renovation since 1980. Over the years, the building has thus undergone an extensive restoration, becoming one of Siena’s most important museums. Nowadays, Santa Maria della Scala is hosting a number of exhibitions covering medieval to contemporary art.
A moving work by a visual artist Jacob Hashimoto, the “Path to the Sky”, is definitely worth seeing before it travels to the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art next year. Made of thousands of Japanese paper kites this floating sculpture is transforming the inner courtyard into a perfect bridge between the earth and sky. In a way, it is honouring all the caregivers and patients who have come and gone through the former hospital over the centuries. This creation is thus bridging a gap between the genius of ancient Siena and modernity, hopefully drawing inspiration from the wisdom of Tuscan artists.
The Palio: The Most Famous Horse Race in the World
It has been held every year since… 1633! The Palio was back on the Piazza del Campo even in 1945, just two months after the end of the World War II. This horse race attracts tens of thousands of spectators to Siena some of them paying fortunes to watch it from the terraces of neighbouring palaces and millions of television viewers. In this respect, the Palio can be likened to the Football World Cup or the Monaco Grand Prix!
Twice a year, on July 2 and August 16, ten Indo-Arabian horses aged under 5 are ridden bareback by mercenary jockeys (not native to the city). The rules of this quasi-medieval competition have not changed since.
In the hope of winning the iconic race, residents of each contrade (neighbourhood) are fervently invoking the help of their patron saint. Just before the start, each horse is taken to a respective church or chapel for a blessing from its priest. A little gentle moment before the fierceness of the race. Nothing is then prohibited during this wild 75-second cavalcade, where the different Siena neighbourhoods clash.
To the delight of tourists, this merciless battle is preceded by a costumed parade. Recalling the ceremonies of olden days, this solemn and triumphant choreography is honouring the institutions, traditions and grandeur of the ancient Republic of Siena. The most popular event of the year, it is also arguably the most famous race in the world.
Gastronomy: Meats, Wines and Desserts
Offering a wide selection of must-try specialties, gastronomy is vital for Siena. Enjoy a generous flavour of pici, a fresh, handmade local pasta. This thick spaghetti is literally melting in your mouth.
Pappa al pomodoro, is a typical soup made with slightly stale Tuscan bread, perfectly ripe tomatoes and olive oil.
As for meats, don’t miss out on one of the most prestigious breeds, the Chianina beef. Or try a famous Tuscan ham, made from a very ancient breed of pig with a characteristic dark coat and a white band across its thorax, often depicted in medieval frescoes.
Cheese lovers will find their delight in a number of sheep’s milk cheeses, from the mildest to the most pronounced flavour, depending on the maturation stage.
And last but not least, are traditional Siena desserts. Rich in honey, spices, dried and candied fruit, Panforte comes in many forms. Choosing this ultimate Christmas treat, opt for the PGI label, guaranteeing its quality.
Made with almond paste, sugar and egg white, soft and chewy Ricciarelli biscuits will delight even more delicate palates.
All these specialties naturally require a pairing with a good Tuscan wine. A full-bodied Chianti Classico with notes of red fruits is perfect for meats, a sweet and enveloping Vin Santo will be a nice pairing for Sienese desserts.
A short trip to the Tuscan countryside will introduce you to many other vintages and a wide variety of charcuterie and cheese. A must before, during or after exploring the city of Siena.
