Picture an elegant Hôtel de Paris patio as a background. A slender young man with ample gestures, attired in an immaculate shirt and sobre trousers. His left arm is beautifully adorned with mysterious tattoos (to be unveiled during our conversation). Today he is giving an interview to a selection of hand-picked journalists. Cédric Grolet is an international celebrity in the world of pastry, ambassador of French excellence in London and Singapore. Having conquered Paris and Saint-Tropez, he has now made a spectacular debut in the legendary Monaco hotel palace, with his tea room designed entirely to the taste of the most privileged gourmands. His signature trompe-l’œil and sculpted flowers first delight your eye before melting deliciously under your tongue.
The unique sweet creations, full-scale sculptures you regretfully crunch into — so much of an artwork they are. Selected to design his wedding cake by the wealthiest man on the planet, bound by a contractual secret, Cédric Grolet won’t shed light on Jeff Bezos’s special day. On average, he is sought for prestigious private events five times a month… But what a relief to know that his sumptuous pastries are now accessible to anyone upon booking in the most beautiful palaces in the world!
Hello Monaco: How did you come to be a star in French pastry?
Cédric Grolet: Long story… To start with, thanks to the efforts of our peers, and social networks of course, the world of pastry has changed a lot. In the past, it was for chefs to shine like stars, the pastry chefs often remaining in the shadow. Over the last ten years, things have evolved a lot, with the pastry chef status changing too. We are keeping up with the times. Recipes are being changed, controlled, improved to reduce the number of calories. You can sugar your dessert with just a fruit, as our trompe l’œil does… At present, many pastry chefs are gaining notoriety. As to me, I enjoyed making pastry by my grandfather’s side back when I was very young, just a 6-year-old.
HM: So it is a family story to start with…
Cédric: I grew up in a small rural town in the Haute-Loire, central France, with my grandparents playing an important role in my education. Running a small hotel-restaurant, they passed on the simple values of Auvergne, those of our local terroir. Respecting the fruit of a tree, looking at the flowers, animals in the garden… Watching my grandfather work, I learned what service and cooking are all about. From a very young age, I admired the colours and the tangy side of the pastry. I found it beautiful and smelling so delicious… Its creation truly requires a great precision. And I do like it precise, when everything is done like it should be.
Fascinated by the world of pastry, I thus obtained a waiver from school at the age of 13 to learn the trade of a pastry chef. After my professional training, I carried on with an equivalent of a high school diploma in pastry. To gain further experience, I then went to Paris. Having started at Fauchon at the age of 20, I’ve worked in the legendary Meurice hotel for the past 15 years. Seven years ago I opened my very first pastry shop. I believe I am still learning. So many things to learn out there…
HM: How did you come up with the idea of a trompe l’oeil largely contributing to your international reputation?
Cédric: I’d actually been doing trompe-l’oeil for about ten years before it took off… Back when I was a kid, my parents would always give me a fruit for a snack. A banana, a pear… to avoid me eating industrial cakes or sweets at school… I come from a modest family with a mom of 6 children and my father, a truck driver. Always on the road, I didn’t see much of him… I grew up in a tiny village, with more sheep than people around. So my mom would always tell me not to go beyond a certain tree (about 30 metres away). She wanted to make sure I stayed safe…
Today I can afford to go all around the world. But back in my younger days I had to trade mopeds just to get a few bucks. I wouldn’t have the money to even buy a bouquet for Mother’s Day. But she would say: “You can have the world at your feet with just a flower! Go to the field and pick some, that would be plenty for me!”
Simple things therefore have always mattered a lot to me, especially fruit! For my final school project in 2013 I did a presentation of a cherry with estragon. I have worked with cherries a lot since then, creating a dozen desserts around this theme. Passionate about fruit, I would follow the rhythm of seasons. Lemons, mangoes, red apples, passion fruit… The only ones I don’t really fancy are watermelon, durian (a Thai fruit not easy to work with) or melon. Probably too much water in them. Some things are given to us by nature, there is no need to touch them more than that. One must know how to stay wise… But apart from these small restrictions, my creativity has no limits and I am having a lot of fun.
HM: In fact, it is sculpture that you are creating… And isn’t it all about an idea like any other modern art in general?
Cédric: Yes, what really matters is following your course, pursuing your own line. Cookies or trompe-l’oeil did not take off to start with. But it’s true that I have always loved drawing. I am also endowed with a great curiosity. I look at the flowers, leaves on the trees, landscapes, constantly finding new ideas.
I think you have to believe in your projects. With an ample dose of work, you are bound to be a success. I now have three shops in Paris, with a fourth one to open soon in the Opera area. Each of them has its own laboratory, its own pastry chef, its head waiter, its team, its oven. We work the same as in the olden days, as Auvergne people do. My grandfather would just install an oven outside, in front of the restaurant…
Everything is made on site with meticulousness here. No distribution chain, no transport involved.
HM: Going back to your origins, there have been talks of you wanting to make your native town, Yssingeaux, the capital of pastry.
Cédric: A lot of not very accurate things are being said… All I wanted to do was to hold a small event for my old master who taught me all the cake making techniques he knew. As for the rest, time will show…
HM: And where does Monaco stand in this journey? What does it mean to you, having a tea room in the legendary Hôtel de Paris?
Cédric: The Hôtel de Paris is a reward for more than 20 years of work! Not even 40 yet, I am trusted with absolute carte blanche here. When we met one and a half years ago, the SBM president just said: “Yes”! “Yes” to everything. I was trusted to carry out my project from A to Z. I was the one to choose the colours, these chic and sobre tones. Golden sand, or those of broken-stone grey. Authentic colours. Designing the decor, I drew everything with my own hand. Down to the tablecloths, flower pots, everything… Totally creating the atmosphere for this tea room.
HM: Do you have any original creations specially for the Principality?
Cédric: Guided by Prince Albert’s recommendations, I created a sculptural yet very light Fraisier. Every year I am planning to make an original piece for Monaco and the Hôtel de Paris in line with my palette, flowers and trompe-l’oeil. Here you may even enjoy pastries served for breakfast.
HM: I am a little surprised to see your left arm entirely tattooed? Is it your personal taste or following a trend?
Cédric: There is a reason behind everything I do! In fact, my arm was seriously damaged in a bad motorcycle accident. I thus wanted to hide the burn scars and see the positive side of it. All the tattoos reflect the elements of my creations. There is my logo in the shape of a hazelnut, drops of Saint-Honoré or a constellation of stars symbolizing the dreams one must have in life.
HM: Talking about that, do you still have a dream that hasn’t yet come true?
Cédric: Many dreams! Above all, I am wishing for this beautiful adventure to continue… it is working out now but it has to carry on! So that I could keep thanking life each day for what it is offering me. I would also like to have a family as there needs to be a balance between professional and private life. But for now I am still growing and I have too many things to manage. I am always on the go. Think of 600 people working for us! Another one of my dreams is keeping my faithful lawyer, Emily, by my side. Alongside with Yohan, executive chef for the entire group, and François, our head in Paris, she is also my business partner. Everyone has their role, their place in our team.
HM: This unbelievable success, what does it mean to you?
Cédric: Back when I was little, I wasn’t even allowed to go beyond a tree in the field. Now I travel the world to bake my cakes. Just imagine that! I love travelling and I get inspired everywhere I go. I am extremely curious. It’s a gift of life! Once you start saying ‘I know it all’, that’s the end of it!
