You might feel at the other end of the world, and yet the Croisette is beckoning just across. Easily reached from both the Bay of Cannes, and a little further east, Golfe Juan, one of the two Lérins Islands jewels, Sainte-Marguerite, is just a 15-minute boat ride away. This is how close this small piece of land, distinguished by its wild and unspoiled nature, is to the coast.
Partly covered by a majestic eucalyptus forest, the oldest in Europe, it is crisscrossed by countless idyllic paths and teeming with birds. Free to grow as it pleases, lush vegetation takes root here without constraint. Maritime pines, hackberry trees laden with summer blossoms and holm oaks all rub shoulders with a multitude of shrubs and plants. Beneath a dappled shade of its pines, the dense scrubland unfolds, rich with fragrance and lush greenery.
Baffling even a most seasoned botanist, a sense of wonder is omnipresent here. This is what makes this charming French Riviera spot, where time seems to stand still, so unique.
A small paradise between the sky and the sea, free of any shops and vehicles, with birdsong punctuated by the lapping of waves. A perfect place to recharge your batteries for a day — no accommodation is provided for longer stays on the island.
Birds, in fact, seem to have found a specially designed habitat here. A peaceful brackish lagoon, Pond of Batéguier, is the birdwatchers’ favourite spot. Its shaded paths unveil stunning vistas of herons, egrets and migratory flocks in a particularly serene setting. A touch of Camargue in an exceptional natural environment.
Fort Royal, Prison of the Iron Mask
While its natural beauty is well worth a visit on its own, the island is storing still more treasures of a completely different kind. Perched on a promontory some 20 metres above the sea, the magnificent Fort Royal is a true Cannes heritage jewel.
400 years of history are hidden behind these massive stones. In 1617 the Duke of Guise commissioned a fortification here. It was, in fact, the Spanish who, after a victory over France, built the fortress. Marshal Vauban later visited it on multiple occasions.
Preserved in its original state, Fort Royal was listed as a historical monument in 1927. These days, crowds of visitors are eagerly exploring this unique site all year round. The subject of numerous legends, that of the Iron Mask is the most intriguing of them all.
Imprisoned in an exceptional cell, built exclusively for him, this man did indeed exist for real. Thirty square metres, a fireplace, a private latrine… A VIP prison, in a way. A comfort worthy of somebody most distinguished, yet kept in a cell of unprecedented security. Fiercely protected by three impenetrable solid wood doors and three rows of bars on the window. The slightest attempt at an escape or contact with the outside world could not even be imagined. Certainly, the most scenic and secure prison in Europe!
Its occupant, certainly, held a secret that, if revealed, was compromising the very king’s reign. A very important state or a family secret for sure… A man who was not to be killed, but kept alive in a mask, concealing his face forever. A 1687 gazette described his arrival to the fortress, his prison of 11 years, as follows: “Locked in a sedan chair, he was wearing a steel mask.”
But who in fact was that man? Some believed he was Louis XIV’s twin brother, born moments before and therefore questioning the Sun King’s legitimacy. A 1789 engraving, on the other hand, claims the prisoner was Louis XIV’s illegitimate son, Louis de Bourbon. Their striking resemblance may have well explained the use of that mask… A number of other, more or less fanciful versions have come up over the centuries, but the mystery remains unsolved. So much so that a major symposium brought together experts on the subject in Cannes in 1987…
As you explore these impressive walls, let your imagination roam. Housing an archaeological museum, the building is scheduled to undergo a massive and costly reconstruction. Whilst preserving the spirit, it would also allow a better representation of its collections.
Marine excavations have indeed unveiled some exceptional artifacts here. In 2017, the oldest shipwreck ever found was discovered north of the island. Back in the early 2nd century BC, the ship was carrying a cargo of wine. Its recovered Roman amphorae, among other things, are now on display in the Fortress. Roman cisterns on the first floor also contain underwater artefacts going back to the Roman and Saracen shipwrecks of La Tradelière and Le Batéguier (ceramics, amphorae, glassware). Roman wall painting, fragments from Sainte-Marguerite excavations, are also there to be seen. A special space dedicated to temporary exhibitions opens onto a vast terrace overlooking the sea and the Cannes coastline. An amazing panorama, all over the Southern Alps to Cap d’Antibes and the Esterel mountains, will truly take your breath away.
An Underwater Museum to Visit with a Mask and a Snorkel
Among the island’s many curiosities, hiding wells, cannons and Roman ruins along its winding paths, is an underwater museum. Following the forester’s house path, equipped with a mask and a snorkel only, you can reach it with a short 100 metre swim. This first underwater ecomuseum in France and in the Mediterranean is the creation of artist, Jason de Caires Taylor. Take your snorkeling gear and discover these six imposing statues, gradually colonized by a multitude of algae and fish. In addition to being original, these sculptures primarily serve an ecological purpose. Made from specific marine material, they provide a prime refuge for the local aquatic life. Little by little, algae, shells, corals, and fish come to live there, bringing the whole site back to life.
A very unusual and appealing way indeed of preserving this little paradise — a haven of peace and beauty, just a stone’s throw away from Cannes and its hustle and bustle. Multiple boaters specially come here to enjoy this tranquility. Anchoring anywhere close to the ecomuseum, however, — a now artistic, animal and plant sanctuary — is strictly prohibited.
To reach Île Sainte-Marguerite, shuttle boats operate daily except for May 1st.
Boarding at Quai Laubeuf, Cannes.
